User:1sfoerster/Engine

Problem Statement
Produce documentation that anyone can follow to create engines from easily obtainable items.

Drive Shaft
Materials needed:
 * one kebab skewer
 * two small pieces of double sided tape


 * 1) The skewer was cut in such a way as to obtain the longest straight piece possible.
 * 2) After being cut, the skewer had to be bent to 90°, 2⅜" from the end.
 * 3) Then bent twice more in half inch intervals to achieve a "U" shape in the skewer.
 * 4) This "U" was to be inside of the main chamber of the engine to drive the main piston.
 * 5) After this was completed another bend at 45° was needed, 2" past the first bend.
 * 6) Then another 45° bend a half inch beyond that to achieve an obtuse "Z" shape in the skewer.
 * 7) This "Z" shape was to drive the second piston, or in this case the balloon diaphragm, which will be discussed shortly.

Fly Wheel
Materials needed:
 * one CD
 * four 3/8 x 9/32 corks
 * one 11/16 x 17/32 cork
 * one piece of double sided tape
 * lid off of a juice bottle


 * 1) The double sided tape was cute into a square and then affixed to the larger cork.
 * 2) This was then attached to the CD, centered over the hole.
 * 3) Next, holes were drilled through the center of each cork using a drill press to ensure an orthogonal hole was drilled.
 * 4) After drilling these holes, two of the smaller corks were slid onto the end of the drive shaft with the 45° bends, and one was slid onto the opposite end.
 * 5) A hole was then drilled in the center of the juice cap.
 * 6) After being drilled the juice cap was slid on to the end of the drive shaft, opposite the 45° bends, with the open end facing outward.
 * 7) Next the CD with the large cork attached to it was slid on to the drive shaft and pressed tightly to the juice lid, but not fastened to it.

Engine Body
Materials:
 * two 12 oz. cans
 * one ¾" PVC pipe elbow
 * one balloon
 * one 6" zip tie
 * one 6/32 bolt, nut washer
 * double sided tape.

Steps:
 * 1) Using a can opener the top of one of the 12 oz. can was removed.
 * 2) Using a box cutter the entire top of the second can was removed.
 * 3) A two inch diameter hole as cut in the front face of the second can.
 * 4) In the first can, two small holes were punched 180° from one another, just big enough for the drive shaft to fit.
 * 5) After this the top of the balloon was cut off and the 6/32 bolt was pressed through the center of the balloon.
 * 6) Then the washer was placed on the bolt and the nut after that.
 * 7) This entire balloon assembly was the placed over one end of the PVC elbow and secured with the zip tie.
 * 8) After this the other end of the PVC elbow had to be shaped to the contour of the can.
 * 9) This was done by wrapping piece of sand paper around the can, then rubbing the elbow on it until fit to shape.
 * 10) After shaped a piece of double sided tape was applied to the elbow, then the entire assembly was pressed to the body of the second can.
 * 11) Then, using an Xacto knife, a hole was cut from inside the can the expose the opening of the PVC elbow.
 * 12) At this point the two cans were taken and pressed together and secured using double sided tape.

Steel Wool Displacer
This displacer was abandoned because it was too floppy. It banged against the can while moving up and down.

The displacer hanger did not go up and down the slip tube without binding as if they were bent.

The displacer hanger and slip tube leaked air when both vacuum and pressure were created by placing mouth over top half of stirling engine.

Materials:
 * one 12 oz. soda can
 * steel wool
 * fine steel wire
 * staples
 * one kebab skewer.


 * 1) The top and bottom were cut off of the can using a box cutter and a pair of aviation sheers, leaving a 2" section of can.
 * 2) This was then cut down the side, creating a sheet of aluminum.
 * 3) After being cut the two ends of the sheet of aluminum were placed overlapping one another and stapled there using three staples facing inward to avoid unnecessary friction. #Then, the steel wool was rolled into a small bail, slightly less than 2¾' in diameter, and cut to 2".
 * 4) Once rolled and but the bail of steel wool was placed inside of the 2" section of can.
 * 5) Once in place, 1/8" incision were made in the edges of the can every half of an inch.
 * 6) The resulting flaps were then folded down to hold the steel wool in place.
 * 7) Once this was completed the rod connecting the displacer to the drive shaft was made using the kebab skewer.
 * 8) The skewer was cut, like the drive shaft, to leave the longest possible straight section.
 * 9) This was then bent to 90° at one end.
 * 10) The opposite end was then used to pierce the center of the steel wool and pressed through until the 90° bend was touching the steel wool.
 * 11) The fine steel wire was then used to secure the kebab skewer to the displacer by wrapping it round the bent end of the skewer and then piercing the steel wool with the wire, pressing it through the displacer, and then back down through the steel wool creating a loop.

Great Stuff Displacer
This displacer burned, perhaps because engine was run too hot while trying to get it to work.

Power Piston
This power piston leaked. Should be able to hold it in place and create vacuum and pressure with mouth covering open can top without air leaks.

FireBox
The goal is to heat this with sterno so a fire box was built. It worked too well and burned up displacers.

Assembly
This assembly mechanically feels smooth, turns easily without any binding feelings

Next Steps

 * Put a lip around the top of the stirling engine while holes and tubes so that cold water, ice can drain off
 * Seal the displacer and power piston so there are no leaks, but run smoothly
 * Develop protocol to keep from burning up the displacer inside such as touching the top of the stirling engine can (through water maybe) and stopping when the top get's hot